Friday, May 12, 2006

At Home in Old Mutare

We are well into our second week in Old Mutare. Perhaps today, I can at last connect to communicate with you. I have made five attempts over the past week, on several computers, without success. Speedy, dependable Internet connections are an illusive luxury here.

Other than a baggage snafu in Atlanta and many bumps between Sal Island and Jo’burg, our trip to Africa was fine. Our arrival had been well orchestrated by Abiot Moyo, as have all other details of our stay, for which we are more than grateful. Our friends, Emmanuel Bawa and Kenny Nokomo met us in Harare and whisked us through customs. We spent the night at the Bawa’s home, and the following day, rode to Old Mutare with our host, Rev. Givemore Chimbwanda. The Chimbwanda family has welcomed us with much grace and made us feel at home. Other’s in the family are Givemore’s wife, Ruth, and their children, Simbarashe, 16, a boarding student in Form V at Hartzell High School, Rumbidza, 13, in sixth grade at Old Mutare Primary School, and Tanyaradzwa, 3, a stay-at-home charmer. You might not guess that Simba is a boy, and Rhumbi and Tanya are girls. Annette and I have occupied Simba’s bedroom.

Annette has been busy. Ruth has a cottage industry making sweaters (jerseys here) with a knitting machine. She sells the sweaters at cost to local folks who are dealing with the “bitter cold” (to me, bracingly cool). Coming from the machine, the parts of the sweater must be sewn together, and Annette has joined Ruth in that task. She has also begun making quilted bags with Ruth and the two maids who share the household, Juliet and Veronica. Tomorrow, she will meet with a dozen church women and make plans for quilting classes. Later today, she will go to Old Mutare hospital to do pill counting. She is not short of work.

My day begins at 6:00 a.m. when Rumbi awakens me as she is about to set off for school. I wash up (showers do not exist and a full bath is a luxury where hot water comes from the kitchen stove) and eat my bota (a delicious porridge of corn meal and peanut butter), drink a cup of rooibus tea, and walk up the mission road, joining many children on their way to the primary school, to the assembly hall at Hartzell High School. There, the 1,000 students, looking sharp in their blue and gray uniforms, are lined up outside to enter the hall for morning devotions, and I join the teachers on the platform at the front of the hall. The devotions, mostly in English, although African English that I have yet to be accustomed to, may include singing of hymns. The first time I heard that mass of young people sing, I was close to tears. The beauty of their singing in parts is entrancing. By 7:20, everyone is off to the first classes of the day. The winter term began last Tuesday, and I am not yet into a regular schedule of teaching, except for a 4:15 after-school remedial class of Form I (eighth grade) students working on basic algebra. I spend some of my day visiting classes and other aspects of Hartzell’s big operation or return home. Yesterday, I visited the dining hall for Forms I to IV and met Nigbert, their chef, who showed me the enormous, black pots in which sadza (the staple Zimbabwean food, made from corn flour), beans, vegetables, and a meat stew were cooking over wood fires.. Nigbert oversees four meals for the 850 boarding students, breakfast, midmorning tea, lunch, and dinner. Those fortunate students are fed well. Next week, I will begin teaching ten math and English classes a week, and will speak at the morning devotions next Friday, in addition to my continuing remedial after-school class.

Last Sunday afternoon, I had a special privilege, accompanying Givemore several kilometers into the countryside to a rural church at Muntenda, where the finance committee counted money raised at the morning Thanksgiving service. Far more than at Old Mutare, I was given a sharp picture of rural life and also of the vibrancy of churches far off the main road, serving God and God's people in remarkable ways. I look forward to many more such trips during the three months I am with the Chimbwandas.

Sunday, after services at Old Mutare Methodist Church, we will drop in at House 8-A at Fairfield Children’s Home for Justice’s birthday party, his 10th. We met Justice last year and have quickly reestablished our friendship. Like the other Fairfield children of school age, he is a student at Old Mutare Primary School, along with Hartzell a vital part of the United Methodist mission at Old Mutare.

Today, I am at Givemore’s office in Mutare, where he does much of his work as district superintendent of the Methodist churches of the Mutasa-Nyanga district. His computer modem, which has not been functioning, is now in good shape, and I have high hopes that I will get to post this blog on our website. We have just purchased fabric for Annette’s quilting projects, about 5 meters of material for which we paid nearly 2,000,000.00 Zim$. We will stop to buy petrol on our return trip to Old Mutare, and will spend 4,000,000.00 Zim$ for 10 liters. Unlike last year, fuel is available, but the cost is sky-high, and there is never a fill-up. The trip from Old Mutare (15 km) crosses Christmas Pass, a high point from which Givemore puts his little Mazda pickup in neutral and coasts down the long hill. On a trip earlier this week, he was anxious about whether petrol would hold out to the top of the hill; we were lucky, coasting into the petrol station on the outskirts of Mutare. Inflation here is beyond belief! $1,000 and $500 bills are Tanyaradzwa’s playthings, worth about at half-cent and a quarter-cent US$

Forgive the long blog! I have little idea when I might again have the opportunity. Thanks much for your interest and prayers. We’re doing just fine, enjoying ourselves greatly, beyond describing in this way. We consider ourselves immeasureably blessed.

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